Izakaya fare meets mountain town flair... There
The scene: Like the famous Abbott and Costello "Who’s on First?" act, There is a pretty bad name for a bar/restaurant, inevitably leading to some variation of the following conversation: “Where do you want to go? There. Where? There.” Nonetheless, the quirky spot has proven wildly popular in Telluride, Colo., an iconic ski town that happens to be busier in summer than winter, thanks to endless festivals, first-rate hiking, mountain biking and golf. It’s also pretty amazing in spring and fall (though most eateries, including There, close for most of April and May). Whatever season you visit, you’ll probably eat There, and Coloradans have embraced the restaurant to such a degree that it opened a year-round spinoff in much bigger Denver.
Like almost every eatery in ultra-preserved historic Telluride, There occupies a Victorian former home and blends in subtly with its neighborhood from the outside. But unlike most competitors, inside music blares, often disco, and patrons are known to dance during dinner. It’s a weird combination of Old West, with high pressed tin ceilings and the feel of being in someone’s home, and Brooklyn meets rustic hipster, with a heavily bearded staff, complex “mixology” cocktail menu, intentional quirkiness, hand-hewn rustic bar tables cut from log cross sections, and metal tractor seats as bar stools. There’s an old fashioned popcorn maker on display, and every meal starts with a flavored version served in a logo There paper bag. The menu is done as a comic book, and the bar’s shot ski, a popular item in ski towns — a ski with several shot glasses mounted to it so a group can drink simultaneously — may be the only one of its kind in existence, made from a pricey Wagner custom ski, a rarified brand made right here in Telluride.
Reason to visit: Local’s Line, miso glazed eggplant, steamed buns, Jam cocktails
The food: The owner came to Telluride after eight years with famed chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s restaurant group, in Miami and New York, and brought Asian fusion flair with him. The waiter described the concept as “Izakaya-style with new American foods” referring to a traditional and casual Japanese form of pub that serves tapas-style small plates. The Edibles menu features a dozen small plates and is broken into sub-sections like tostadas, steamed buns, lettuce wraps and kushiyaki (grilled skewers), each of which features a rotating daily selection of proteins and veggies, with most running $4-7 and served on wooden paddles. There are also larger options under Bowling (three daily bowl choices: meat, veggie and fish with rice or ramen noodles), Sharables (larger platters like a whole fish) and Others (vegetable sides). The cocktail menu is set up in similar fashion, with sections such as Shaken and the house signature, Jam Drinks, which allow patrons to mix and match a spirit (tequila, rye, vodka, gin, rum) and a jam (Maine blueberry, pumpkin, red pepper jelly).
There is great for sharing because there are so many options changing all the time, plus specials, and the small plate format allows you to try several different things. Wrapped in fluffy but light warm dough, the steamed buns are always a good choice, and I tried very tasty duck, which was cooked with classic Chinese char siu barbecue sauce, and dressed with pickled fennel and pickled onion, complex but well-chosen ingredients. The signature lettuce wraps are the elk, popular in Western mountain states, served medium rare with garlic and scallions cooked in sesame oil. There are always lots of non-meat choices, like the beet and mushroom tostadas with goat cheese, which were excellent. Daily skewer options included Norwegian salmon with wasabi coconut dipping sauce and tempura battered and fried Portobello mushrooms. I’m not a Portobello fan, but I was with a couple of them, and they absolutely loved the skewers — favorites of the night. One of the signature “Other” sides is the miso glazed eggplant, with jicama slaw, which was amazing and my favorite dish. It’s an eclectic mix, with a pronounced Asian flavor spin, but so much variety that there is something for every palate — and it’s fun. There also offers fairly extensive vegan and gluten-free menus.
A nod to the ski town culture, the Local’s Line is named for an off-the-map ski run known only to residents, and in this vein it is not on the menu, but it is very popular and worth asking for. It is a platter of crispy flash-fried brussels sprouts leaves, individually detached like mini-chips, tossed with kosher salt. It's simple but delicious and addictive, and something I have never seen before.
There is not open for lunch, but does a very popular Sunday Brunch and après ski happy hour from 4 p.m.-5 p.m. daily with a signature “ski bum” special, soup, sandwich and a beer for 10 bucks. The combination is a riff on the classic grilled cheese and tomato soup, except it is reversed: an heirloom tomato sandwich on ciabatta bread served with cheese soup. The Denver location has the same menu, plus an attached gourmet market with hard to find foodstuffs.
Pilgrimage-worthy?: No, but if you visit Telluride it’s definitely worth a dinner.
Rating: Yum! (Scale: Blah, OK, Mmmm, Yum!, OMG!)
Price: $$ ($ cheap, $$ moderate, $$$ expensive)
Details: Original, 627 West Pacific Ave., Telluride, CO; 970-728-123; Outpost, 3524 Navajo St., Denver, CO; 720-500-3254; therebars.com
Larry Olmsted has been writing about food and travel for more than 15 years. An avid eater and cook, he has attended cooking classes in Italy, judged a barbecue contest and once dined with Julia Child. Follow him on Twitter, @TravelFoodGuy, and if there's a unique American eatery you think he should visit, send him an e-mail at travel@usatoday.com. Some of the venues reviewed by this column provided complimentary services.