Memphis' fast food barbecue chain is 'Tops'
The scene: Firemen are the most famously discerning eaters out of all uniformed professionals, and when I most recently visited Tops Bar-B-Q, a fast food barbecue chain in Memphis, several were in line ahead of me. This stood out because I realized I can’t recall ever seeing a group of firemen in line at any other fast food eatery, certainly not one of the big national chains. But in retrospect it makes sense — as fast food goes, Tops is better than most — and everybody loves barbecue.
An institution around Memphis, there are 15 Tops locations (including three in neighboring Arkansas and Mississippi), all spawned from a now defunct counter that opened within a supermarket 64 years ago. Each has a classic fast food feel, with easy to mop synthetic floors, brightly colored Formica tables in booths, self-serve soda dispensers, and an order at the counter register system with menu boards overhead. You wait as your order is assembled on red plastic trays, but it is a touch homier than you might expect and much beloved locally — it is, as one Memphis friend suggested, “The In-N-Out Burger of barbecue.”
And unlike other fast food joints, each Tops location has its own big smoker, where most meats are cooked slowly overnight and throughout the day. And while few other similar roadside eateries cater, many regulars use Tops for event and party food — in addition to sandwiches and mixed plates, the menu includes whole pork shoulders, whole beef briskets and even 10-pound bags of ice.
Reason to visit: Burgers, beans, ribs, pork sandwiches
The food: While Tops is definitely a barbecue place, with the real deal wood burning smoker and all three main barbecue options — pulled/chopped pork, brisket and ribs — they also make burgers, and in a big way. In fact, for many Memphians this is the go-to fast burger spot, ahead of national chains, and while locals are famously picky about their barbecue, even those who’d skip Tops for their favorite ‘cue specialist come for the burgers. Cooked on well broken-in flattops, the basic starts with a generous quarter pound patty, and they serve up plenty of doubles (half pounders). The beef is more aggressively seasoned than at most burger places, nicely seared on the gill, and the bun is toasted for extra pizazz and crunch. Always cooked to order, it’s a fresh, very tasty burger. Tops offers a turkey version, and will happily prepare it almost any way you want, including off-menu specials like pulled pork topping or white bread instead of bun.
On the other hand, that other staple of fast food, fries, are a bit of a disappointment. Old-fashioned, crinkle cut versions are neither crispy nor especially tasty. Stick to classic barbecue sides like cole slaw, beans and potato salad. Many fans love the beans in particular, which are not as smoky as most barbecue takes on the genre, but quite sharply vinegary, a different but tasty spin on the dish.
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Because each spot does its own smoking, the brisket varies the most from day to day and place to place, but is better than average, nicely sliced for the plates (too many spots use deli machines for brisket, cut too thin to appreciate the fatty meatiness). It could be a tad moister, but it is pretty solid for a part of the country where beef brisket is not too popular and often skipped altogether. Tops specializes more in pork shoulder, which you can request pulled (the way I like it, chunkier) or chopped (fine textures and uniform). This is the meat that most benefits from the sandwich format versus the plate as Tops’ cole slaw pairs very well in terms of both flavor and consistency, adding a much needed snap to each bite in sandwich form.
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In addition to meat and side plates, combo plates, racks of ribs and sandwiches (including burgers), Tops offers make your own sandwich party packs (for six or eight people) with pork or brisket, buns, sauce and slaw for home assembly (in addition to the whole party sized brisket and shoulders). For barbecue devotees the chain is hardly life changing, but offers reliability, value, convenience and really good burgers. For visitors, it’s more an add-on to the Memphis barbecue trail than the main stop. Plus, Elvis ate here, and when it comes to Memphis dining, that’s always a big deal.
Pilgrimage-worthy?: No, but a good first or last stop on a barbecue-centric visit to Memphis.
Rating: Mmmm (Scale: Blah, OK, Mmmm, Yum!, OMG!)
Price: $-$$ ($ cheap, $$ moderate, $$$ expensive)
Details: 12 Tennessee locations mostly in and around Memphis, plus two in Mississippi and one in Arkansas; topsbarbq.com
Larry Olmsted has been writing about food and travel for more than 15 years. An avid eater and cook, he has attended cooking classes in Italy, judged a barbecue contest and once dined with Julia Child. Follow him on Twitter, @TravelFoodGuy, and if there's a unique American eatery you think he should visit, send him an e-mail at travel@usatoday.com. Some of the venues reviewed by this column provided complimentary services.