10Best: Special soups to savor this fall
With chillier weather on the way, it’s soon to be soup season, and Marjorie Druker couldn’t be happier. The co-author of the best-selling The New England Soup Factory Cookbook (Thomas Nelson, $24.99) says travelers can find traditional bowls across the nation. “Soup is the ultimate comfort food. It feeds your body and your soul,” says the owner of several Boston-area restaurants. “I can’t live a day without it.” She shares some favorites with Larry Bleiberg for USA TODAY.
Lobster Stew, Bob’s Clam Hut
Kittery, Maine
Stews don’t have to have potatoes, beef and carrots, Druker says. This lobster dish, treasured in New England, is a rich, hearty meal in a bowl. “It’s the essence of lobster, with butter, cream and stock. It’s the national dish of Maine.” Bob’s often has lines, but Druker says it’s worth the wait. 207-439-4233; bobsclamhut.com
Matzo Ball Soup, Stage Deli
Bloomfield, Mich.
Druker says the Detroit area has the country’s best delis. Exhibit one is the matzo ball soup. “It’s the epitome of great Jewish foods. I love big fat matzo balls, and I love a really intense rich broth,” she says. “If you didn’t have a Jewish mother and you have a great bowl of matzo ball soup, you feel like you had one.” 248-855-6622; thestagedeli.com
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Gumbo, Herbsaint
New Orleans
You can taste the French, Spanish and African influences in this hearty soup, combining a jazzy mix of vegetables, seafood and spices. “It all starts with roux, the mixture of flour and fat. That’s the mother of gumbo, what gives it its true treasure and taste,” Druker says. Herbsaint serves a gumbo of the day, which often includes shrimp and crab. “It’s a lot of culture in one bowl.” 504-524-4114; herbsaint.com
Green Chile Stew, Martin’s Capitol Café
Roswell, N.M.
While not overly hot, green chiles have a distinct peppery flavor, reminiscent of pimentos, Druker says. This friendly, homey café uses local ingredients and serves a creamy version of the signature New Mexico dish, delivering just the right kick. 575-624-2111; martinscapitolcafe.com
Black Bean Soup, South Seas Island Resort
Captiva Island, Fla.
Druker was interning at this resort hotel when she fell in love with the Cuban black bean soup — and the fellow intern who would become her husband. The dish, often on the resort’s menu, should start with dry beans that are cooked with ham hocks, and then served over white rice, yielding a thick and hearty soup with a touch of smokiness. “To this day, it’s one of my favorites.” 239-472-5111; southseas.com
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Lakefront IPA Beer Cheese Soup, Milwaukee Brat House
Milwaukee
Druker calls this the perfect dish for a beer-loving town like Milwaukee. It mixes crisp bits of bacon, sharp cheddar cheese, roasted red pepper and a dash of beer. “It’s all those things that go together really well. You almost can’t go wrong when you put them in a soup. It’s great for winter time when you need a little bit of extra comfort and warmth.” 414-273-8709; milwaukeebrathouse.com
Special Saimin, Hamura Saimin Stand
Lihu’e, Kauai, Hawaii
Saimin, a ramen-style soup, is a Hawaiian original, drawing on Chinese, Japanese and Filipino influences for a memorable meal in a bowl. This fourth-generation noodle shop serves a version topped with green onions, slices of fish cake and bits of meat. “This is an extra noodle soup with a very clean and intense broth,” Druker says. 808-245-3271
Maryland Crab Soup, Captain James Landing
Baltimore
Succulent, sweet crab meat’s accessible to most palates, Druker says. “I love crab anywhere you can put it. It goes hand-in-hand in making a beautiful seafood soup.” The tomato-based version served at this ship-shaped waterfront restaurant has attracted diners for decades. 410-327-8600; captainjameslanding.com
Burgoo, Ole Hickory Pit Bar-B-Que
Louisville
Druker says the best takes on this spicy dish similar to Brunswick stew starts with a stock made with meaty bones. “All that collagen leaks from the bone into the broth. It has a load of nutrients in it.” Popular from Appalachia through the Midwest, the version served in Louisville is thick with vegetables and pulled meat, and comes with cornbread. “It’s intense and jam-packed with hearty, meaty flavor.” 502-968-0585
Tortilla Soup, Romesco Mexiterranean Bistro
San Diego
The best tortilla soups taste like liquefied nachos, Druker says. “You don’t have to chew it or crunch it. It slides down on a spoon. It’s just a bowl of goodness.” She likes this Southern California version with tomato, chicken broth, tortilla strips, avocado, fresh cream, cheese, fried pasilla chiles and cilantro. 619-475-8627; romescomexmed.com