Highlights from NYFW day one: Kanye's Yeezy Season 3, Saint Laurent
Corrections and clarifications: An earlier version of this story misspelled Justin Bieber's last name.
Fashion Week is in full swing in New York -- as most outside the industry are now aware as a result of Kanye doing what Kanye does best. The rap giant, fashioner, Kardashian frontman and newly minted video game designer (who knew?) dominated the first official day of shows in a way that only the polarizing jack-of-all trades could. But before delving too far into the Cirque de West, there were a few other sartorial high points from the opening of the fall / winter 2016 season.
Saint Laurent's celeb filled runway show
Though technically Wednesday night and in LA, images and skuttle from Hedi Slimane's show circulated throughout the day Thursday. Justin Bieber, Lady Gaga, Ellen DeGeneres, Courtney Love and Sam Smith were a few of the celebs that packed the Palladium concert hall on Sunset Boulevard. The designer has been based in the city for the last several years, and it's influence on Slimane is clear in the collection. Rocker glam vibes mixed with references to the famous Rive Gauche collection, the first ready-to-wear line from the couture house which launched 50 years ago this season. A few nods to David Bowe's Ziggy Stardust were also present, likely the first of many homages to the late singer coming this month.
The not-so-basics at Trademark
Pookie and Louisa Burch have entranced editors and customers alike with their elevated classics. The smocked shirts and shearling coats will likely be seen on more than one fashion blogger in the coming months.
Marissa Webb's canary yellow
Michelle Obama helped pronounce it the color of the season of with her State of the Union dress by Narciso Rodriguez, and the five airy pieces in the same hue were the undeniable peak of Marissa Webb's show, the designer's first since stepping down as creative director for Banana Republic.
Adam Selman's "Making a Murderer" inspired pieces
Like most of us, Selman is obsessed with the Netflix doc-series, and his binge-watching experience made its way into his Fall collection. For his "murder-in-the-night theme," Selman played with dark velvets, blood reds and dark black eyeliner.
Kanye's Madison Square Garden takeover
It can be easy to dismiss West's listening-party-come-fashion-show as a publicity stunt. And it certainly was. From the audacious one-liners, to family reunion, video game featuring his deceased mother (seriously) to Taylor Swift flame war; there was no shortage of headline-making, attention-grabbing moments in the nearly three-hour-long event.
But, as critics have pointed out in past seasons, there were some moments of intrigue and genuine vision. The clothing had the same post-apocalyptic feel, if everyone in a post-apocalyptic world only had access to spandex body suits, knee-highs and oversized coats. Though the earthy, monotone colors were striking on the nearly full cast of black models, which undoubtedly made a statement to an industry that has repeatedly been accused of racial inequality. The point was driven home with appearances by supermodels Naomi Campbell, Veronica Webb and Liya Kebede.
West also opened the doors to ticket holders, something designers like Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy have been toying with but haven't fully committed to. Taking the concept a step further, West sold sweatshirts and such on site -- a move that could be considered genius by anyone who has sat through a runway show and wished they could walk out in one of the pieces shown. Or conversely, a gauche, capitalistic play, hawking t-shirts like any other act trying to make a buck off an arena appearance.
Though the quality of his collection makes his professed dream of becoming creative director of Hermes feel fantastical, he has the world talking. And isn't that, after all, his point?