Bob’s Clam Hut: Serving great Maine seafood all year long
The scene: Kittery is the first town visitors to Maine reach after crossing the border from New Hampshire, and most famous for a lot of outlet stores in a series of not-too-attractive strip malls. In the middle of this retail congestion sits Bob’s Clam Hut, a location that makes it look like a tourist trap, and an easy one to pass up — something I had done for years. Big mistake. Bob’s dates back to 1956 in this spot, long before the first factory outlet arrived and before the boom in Maine seafood eateries in the region. It is a classic of the genre and for years was the only roadside seafood choice on a long stretch of South Maine coastline. It is still one of the best.
It is also open year-round, a bit of a rarity in these parts, so as days get shorter and cooler, anyone visiting Maine should keep it in mind for excellent fried seafood and lobster rolls long after its many rivals have shuttered for the winter. But it really shines spring to fall when there is a wealth of outdoor seating. In fact, another potential turn-off is that it always looks really crowded from the street, with a crowd out front and just a few al fresco tables visible, but there are a lot more hidden from view out back, complete with an open-air handwashing station, plus a sizeable indoor dining room that is heated in winter. You order at a window and wait for your number to be called indoors or out over the PA system, and in peak summer season, there is also a separate ice cream window. Bob’s even employs local teens to guide motorists in and out of the bustling parking lot. There is high turnover, things move fast, and the owner’s goal — usually met — is to serve everyone within five to seven minutes of ordering. Ironically, what really gums up the works here is a burger, since the operation is geared around fried-to-order fresh seafood.
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Inside is a bizarre mix of historic photos and menus, nautical décor, home-drawn art – such as a giant Gilligan’s Island-inspired mural — and endless articles and awards, going back decades but all with the same general message — that Bob’s serves Maine’s best fried clams.
Reason to visit: Clams 2 Ways Platter, lobster roll, fried scallops, fried haddock, fried combo plates, lobster stew, clam chowder, dessert.
The food: The name is Bob’s Clam Hut after all, so not surprisingly, the specialty is clams, though there is so much more to love here. The current owners bought it from founder Bob Kraft in 1986 but have kept his traditions alive, most notably the two styles of fried clams available, Bob’s and Lillian’s. “Bob always liked a light coating, just put it in some flour, while some places do heavier batter. So Lillian, a longtime cook here, started batter as an option,” said Tim Beal, general manager. Personally I give Bob’s the slight edge because you taste the clam a little more, but the batter on the Lillian’s is delicious, and both are excellent representations of fried clams. Fortunately you never have to choose, because the single most popular dish is the Clams 2 Ways Platter, half and half. They use whole belly clams, and are fanatical about changing the oil, an average of five times daily, and with eleven different fryers, they can rotate the cleaning and refilling process without closing or slowing down. Lighter color in fried food indicates cleaner oil, and Bob’s fish is consistently light golden. While whole belly clams are considered superior by purists, some people prefer less meaty and chewy clam strips, especially as a vehicle for dipping tartar sauce, and since Bob’s make their own acclaimed from-scratch tartar (regular and spicy), strips are very popular here as well.
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Fried food is widespread, but very hard to do right, and Bob’s does it perfectly. The scallops were superb, big, meaty, lightly breaded and perfectly cooked with great flavor, and the haddock was also excellent, much better than almost any fish and chips you’ll find. There are several make-your-own combo platter options with scallops, clams, calamari, shrimp, oysters and haddock to pick from. Because of their skill with hot oil, the fries and onion rings are also standouts, and it is hard to choose, but overall the rings are more popular, unusual for any eatery. Bob’s has won countless awards including Best Clam Shack in New England from Boston Magazine and when it was featured on Guy Fieri’s TV show Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives, the host suggested “For pure crunch-ification, go with the Lillian.”
If all Bob’s did was expertly fry clams and scallops and haddock, it would be more than enough to justify a trip. But they also make an awesome lobster roll — they won Editor’s Choice at New York’s annual Lobster Rumble against the biggest names in the field. In fact, I had the lobster roll at Bob’s and the more famous one from the Clam Shack in Kennebunkport, a former Great American Bites profile and frequent Best Lobster Roll in Maine winner, in the same day. While the Clam Shack makes a mean sandwich, Bob’s killed it, hands-down the better roll. In fact, on a recent weeklong trip up the Maine Coast, I had lots of lobster rolls, and this was the best. They still use Bob’s original recipe, just a little mayo, none of the paprika, chives or celery that has found its way into some versions. But the secret is an excellent and generously buttered New England style bun that is perfectly toasted for warm, crunchy contrast, and the fact that they use only knuckle and claw meat. “Tails are preferred for just eating lobster, but in the roll it is a bit too chewy,” says Beal. Because some folks prefer just butter to mayo, they make it that way too on demand. It is really hard to pass up this exceptional sandwich, but if you do, consider the lobster stew, another fantastic choice, very rich and creamy with big chunks of fresh Maine lobster meat.
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The final piece of the Bob’s puzzle is their unique take on New England clam chowder. It is white but not creamy, and exceptionally thin for the style, with no flour whatsoever (it’s gluten free and always has been). The style is so distinctive that every table has a little placard explaining “Why is your clam chowder so thin?” It doesn’t look very attractive in the bowl, but it’s still rich and buttery, full of clam flavor and much better than you’d think, with some very loyal fans. I liked it a lot, but I like a thicker version as well, and it’s not quite a must the way the lobster roll and clams are.
Save room for dessert. Bob’s sells gourmet Mount Desert Island Ice Cream, an excellent Maine craft producer that has previously been featured here in Great American Bites, as well as that other Maine specialty, the whoopie pie. Two discs of chocolate cake sandwiching white, sugary, lightly marshmallow filling is the traditional style, though whoopie pies now come in all sorts of flavors and colors. The owners of Bob’s also have a gourmet bakery café nearby, and bring in their house-made whoopie pies, and like everything else on the menu, they are excellent.
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Pilgrimage-worthy?: Yes — quite possibly the best lobster roll you have ever tasted, along with delicious fried clams and scallops.
Rating: OMG! (Scale: Blah, OK, Mmmm, Yum!, OMG!)
Price: $$ ($ cheap, $$ moderate, $$$ expensive)
Details: Route 1, Kittery; 207-439-4233; bobsclamhut.com
Larry Olmsted has been writing about food and travel for more than 15 years. An avid eater and cook, he has attended cooking classes in Italy, judged a barbecue contest and once dined with Julia Child. Follow him on Twitter, @TravelFoodGuy, and if there's a unique American eatery you think he should visit, send him an email at travel@usatoday.com. Some of the venues reviewed by this column provided complimentary services.